Turn around at Mt Baker summit

General

We attempted a late season climb of Mt Baker in Washington state. We were not experience enough to be just a two-person rope team – so that was kinda stupid. But we were quite risk averse in other ways. When we realized that the sun was beating quite hard and the snow bridges were beginning to melt, we decided it wasn’t safe to continue upwards. Given 80% of mountaineering accidents happen on the way down, we didn’t want to push our luck. Two other parties continued ascending and they did summit and also came back down safely. Different risk appetite, and luck.

Outdoor Movies in Seattle 2014 – ical and csv format

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Thrillist put together a great collection that lists out all of the outdoor movies screening this summer in Seattle . However, they didn’t offer a calendar format of that data which makes it kinda hard to plan these movies around other things that I also have going on. To make it easy to compare this with other things on my calendar, I manually scrubbed the list and put it together in a spreadsheet.
  
And then I made it available as  XML, iCal and HTML versions if anyone wants to subscribe/add this to your own calendars. Enjoy!

Seattle Outdoor Movies 2014

Understanding weather forecast trends for alpine climbing

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We were planning on climbing Mt Rainier this weekend and then decided not to. Here’s why.

Hidden in the small text changes between the forecast right now (left) and the forecast earlier this morning (right) is the information that the conditions are slightly worse than they initially thought. For optimal climbing conditions – you wanna catch a positive trend in forecasting, not a negative trend. So we’ll likely delay our summit attempt to a later window.

The concerning detail is that 2 days ago it was supposed to be sunny on Sunday. Last night they predicted thunderstorms on Sunday. This afternoon they are predicting snow showers on Sunday. Even though each prediction is a “slight” chance, cumulatively it points to a larger negative trend that makes it smarter to avoid from a mountaineering risk analysis perspective.

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